Yu by Si Jie

A whole duck, roasted until the skin sets into a deep amber lacquer, then carved and brought out with everything it needs around it.
It is the dish the kitchen is built around, and the one we would put in front of you first. The skin is the point — glossy, even, and cut so that every slice carries it.
Around the platter sits the rest of the service: warm pancakes in the steamer, the garnishes cut fine, and a row of one-bite canapés to open with.